Tracing the roots of the Khmer Empire back to its source: the enchanted forests, sacred river springs and breathtaking waterfall of Kulen Mountain Plateau
This is where it all began ... the Khmer Empire was founded on the holy mountain of Phnom Kulen.
The King Jayavarman II (the second Jaya of the Varman Dynasty) climbed up onto the sacred mountain of Kulen (Phnom Kulen) in 802 AD and declared a unified Empire under the many smaller Khmer entities, founding in effect, the Khmer Empire, and its capital down below the mountains, at Angkor.
This became the capital of a region of what is today Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, parts of China, parts of Vietnam, parts of Myanmar, parts of Malaysia ... this thing was big. And its capital Angkor became one of the largest cities in the world (for a while even THE largest city in the world) for over 600 years – from 802 AD until 1431.
But first, the jungle & the mountain: the source of the sacred waters, the holy river, and all that beauty ...
Kbal Spean: The River of 1000 Lingas
We start at the source – the literal source: where the waters that feed the rivers that flow down to Angkor and Siem Reap (and on to the Tonal Sap) begin.
This is a place of serene beauty - and of a thousand penises. Well, Lingas, to be exact: the ancient Hindu symbol of male fertility. Literally thousands of them (and yes, female fertility symbols - the Yoni - as well, but not as many) were carved over the centuries into the bedrock of the river bed ... in effect, blessing the water from the source with fertility as it flows down into the fields of Angkor.
Wat Preah Ang Thom: The Temple of the Reclining Buddha
Be prepared to climb some stairs - this guy lives way up at the top!
Beautiful views from above - it's worth it! And it's on the way between the 1000 Linga riverbed and the waterfalls, anyway...
Kulen Waterfalls
These are some of the most beautiful waterfalls I have ever seen. Yes, there are larger ones, but few so picturesque!
They are divided into multiple levels (3 to be exact) with less and less tourists as you go down (those stairs scare many off) ...
The falls are a meeting point for families, monks enjoying a respite, and teens hoping for that perfect Instagram pic ... you need good walking shoes to climb the many stairs, but you'll also want to get wet, so have a swimsuit, or at least clothes that can get wet a bit with you. There are facilities to change at the waterfall ... a few dollars and you have dry clothes: worth it!
Finally, when you think you've seen all Kulen National Park has to offer ...
The Cliff of Poeng Ta Kho
First off: I am terribly afraid of heights, and this was no problem. When standing above, the ledge is huge, flat, and the edge quite far away. But the angle from the next ledge over makes it look amazing!
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